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Thread: Water-cooling CPU + NB +2 GPU

  1. #1
    Mike Atherton is offline Member
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    Default Water-cooling CPU + NB +2 GPU

    Hi Friends, I would like to water-cool my computer and graphic cards. I’m completely new to water-cooling and have no idea if such a thing is probable. I have Corei7 975 on a free of charge. All this in a Cooler Master ATCS case Right now everything is on air, but things get pretty hot with some over clocking.

    What's the best way to go about it? Get some kind of ready water-cooling system? Or buy parts separately? All of the links provided by budded are valid and decent stuff. The CPU block and GPU blocks are pretty popular. The CPU block is very restrictive and needs to be in a loop all by itself to.

    I wouldn't buy and koolance fittings myself, its bits power brand for many and me. The Koolance fittings are much poorer quality. But the quick disconnects for a bleed line and the valuing isn't bad. Shadow, you got to get out more and see what peeps are using before just slamming Koolance. Their custom stuff isn't that bad.

    Following considering how the older ones leaked, and given their past quality problems, and the fact that thy use Acrylic instead of Delrin/Acetel, I still don't trust Koolance. Sure the 350 block performs well, but I would never trust an Acrylic top seen too much Acrylic stuff broken easily, including 1/2" Acrylic plates. I guess I'm just bias toward HK, EK, and Switch.

    You might be partial, but info you pass on wants to be accurate. Your one of the 4-6 peeps here who knows stuff. Don't let others old past issues cloud your good decision. You never used Koolance so I don't see the private link to your bias, only others issues. Still, ANY Koolance kit is crap, I agree on that.

  2. #2
    Alec Stewart is offline Member
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    OK, I'll not try to be prejudice but no promise. As for never using Koolance stuff, my friends used them and after seeing it start to leak while in the focus of gaming at a LAN and just out right dying in its sleep, I’ve been pretty anti Koolance. At any rate, I'll recommend the 350 if one needs the best. That’s a LOT of heat to cool. For avoid financial plan brands like Zelman and Koolance Air cool the NB for a start. I got all my stuff from danger den. It’s expensive to.

    You want a good pump and big rest for a start. As a 'rule of thumb' u wants of radiator for every major heat source. That means a 3x120 rad.Id avoid the computer coolness that include mem cooing, which means heat sinks and additional internal fans for those. A single 120mm low rpm should be fineGet Tygon tubing. Don’t skimp.

    Obtain warmth blocks and rads with copper only internals. Mixing alu and copper is BAD.
    Use a water wetter and or anti fungal and anti conductive. Yes your system could leak. Yes, you WILL get crud gunking up your pump, rad and water blocks regardless of what fluids or additives you use. Look to spend. Yes you can spend less. You could also get a Celeron instead of an i7.

    My next residence build system will be air only. Have little water systems; Get a colossal Thermal right 120 sink. Make a custom venture with 2x120mm fans in a pull configure. Thermal rights also make killer gpu coolers. The improvement of air is its low maintenance. Dust builds up. Just blast it with a can of compressed air. Easy.

  3. #3
    Graham Gooch is offline Member
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    He'll need a 120x2 minimum for just the CPU, and 120x2 for the GPUs minimum. Times have changed mrmez.Tygon tubing isn't the king anymore Primo flex LRT is. Tygon is still good.

    We don't use water wetter anymore. You won't get crud in your blocks after two years of using distilled water and a quality biocide. Yes, drain and refill every 6 months of course.

    You’re looking at something north of minimum easy and that not water-cooling the NB.
    The ops Delta T with those two GPUs, and HS Yates running SLI Fur mark load might hit 11-12C. Kind of high, but the GPU temps will still be lower than stock by a long shot. It all depends what his plans for the CPU is. High VID with HT on and a BIG over clock, the 120x3 for the CPU for sure. It's kind of up to the OP. He's on at Conforms BTW, he did a double ask.

  4. #4
    Graham Gooch is offline Member
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    OK, I'll not try to be prejudice but no promise. As for never using Koolance stuff, my friends used them and after seeing it start to leak while in the focus of gaming at a LAN and just out right dying in its sleep, I’ve been pretty anti Koolance. At any rate, I'll recommend the 350 if one needs the best. That’s a LOT of heat to cool. For avoid financial plan brands like Zelman and Koolance Air cool the NB for a start. I got all my stuff from danger den. It’s expensive to.

    You want a good pump and big rest for a start. As a 'rule of thumb' u wants of radiator for every major heat source. That means a 3x120 rad.Id avoid the computer coolness that include mem cooing, which means heat sinks and additional internal fans for those. A single 120mm low rpm should be fineGet Tygon tubing. Don’t skimp.

    Obtain warmth blocks and rads with copper only internals. Mixing alu and copper is BAD. Use a water wetter and or anti fungal and anti conductive. Yes your system could leak. Yes, you WILL get crud gunking up your pump, rad and water blocks regardless of what fluids or additives you use. Look to spend. Yes you can spend less. You could also get a Celeron instead of an i7.

    My next residence build system will be air only. Have little water systems; Get a colossal Thermal right 120 sink. Make a custom venture with 2x120mm fans in a pull configure. Thermal rights also make killer gpu coolers. The improvement of air is its low maintenance. Dust builds up. Just blast it with a can of compressed air. Easy.[/QUOTE]

  5. #5
    Mike Gatting is offline Member
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    Well I was running a Q6600 all on one 120mm Thermo chill rad with a single fan. Today without the gpu the old hot quad runs with a single 800rpm fan all day, even with games like FSX which use computer. So IMHO id suggests if you get a good rad like a Thermo chill, you should be fine with a 3x120. Setup is very important to. In a 'push' config you want at least 10cm between fan and rad. Many people don’t like the 'pull' config, but with a horizontally mounted rad and a shroud, love it.

    Should be interesting either way. Let us know how it goes. The Q6600 is a special edition. That’s what i call it anyway since it pulls 1.20v under loads @ 3.0 GHz I use my hottest core as my numbers. With the fan @ 800Rpm I get idle. Full load I'll get up to 58c after hours. Normal non computer centric games I'll get low.

    You might be adding together a computer to that laptop or another work station, to you would need to run that fan flat-out. I wouldn't like it. I still think a 3x120 with good fans, installation and setup can handle it.

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